Wednesday, May 25, 2011

It's moments like these.....

I had an utterly hilarious experience whilst running in Damyang on Monday.

Let me paint the scene for you -

I live in the countryside and so when I go for my daily jog, I am mostly running along small pathway next to rice paddies, herb gardens and farm fields and of course the river. It had been raining in the morning so everything was a bit damp and the fields were all muddy and water logged but by the time I left my apartment at 6:30pm, the sun was shining and there was a lovely breeze.

I was about 20 minutes into the run and I was in a pretty good rhythm dancing along to the Time Warp when out of nowhere, I slipped on a mossy wet patch on the path and tumbled face first down the bank into a mud-filled rice paddy. I obviously let out a shriek in shock and the next thing I know 3 ajummas (old Korean ladies) who were in the field side shack come running out towards me. One dove right into the mud to help me out, the other stood screeching, laughing and flailing her arms in the air and the third ran off to call her friends. I finally manage to get myself up and I am now covered from head to toe in mud, dirt and grass and another 3 ajummas have come to join the party. One of them took off her neck scarf and starts wiping my face clean and patting me on the back, trying to shake the dirt off me. All I wanted to do was burst into tears but with 6 ajummas babbling off in korean, whilst cleaning me up and laughing and shrieking to each other and basically re-enacting the disastor, all I could do was burst out laughing and say thank you.

..and then they patted me on the bum, gave me a hug, made a running action and sent me on my way and I carried on running for 30 more minutes.

It's moments like these that just make me love Korea even more.

<3     

Friday, May 20, 2011

Korea Round 2:)

Hi friends,

I seem to find myself starting posts this way much too often and now that I am settled in my new job I hope it will change drastically BUT I sincerely apologize for my lack of updates.

I recently arrived back in South Korea (well 6 weeks ago to be exact) for my second stint as an English teacher and life has been quite a whirlwind to say the least. After a year away from this glorious country, I am still very much in the eyes-wide-open stage, where anything and everything that happens excites and mind-boggles me at the same time.

6 weeks ago, I arrived in Incheon airport - 2 weeks before my job orientation was due to start - ready to get back to my roots and friends in Gwangju before it was time to 'get serious.' Everything went smoothly until I was "randomly" pulled aside to have my bags searched by customs. The two men standing there didn't even as much as look at my bag, instead they began their 'routine' foreigner investigation. "Where do you live in Korea?", "Do you like Korean food?", "Do you have a boyfriend?".

Welcome back to Korea, Katie:)

Since I didn't have time to use the internet before getting on the bus to Gwangju - I helplessly charaded signs to a baffled Korean man to ask to use his phone to get hold of Gillian to let her know what time I would arrive in the Ju. She didn't answer, so he signed to me to send her a text message. How sweet. he even took the time to enthusiastically stumble down the aisle of the moving bus to show me her reply 2 hours later and then sat down next to me and offered me some mokolri (Korean rice wine.)

Welcome back to Korea:)

It's strange how one can immerse oneself wholeheartedly in a culture so that all of the little silly things that are so noticeably different seem so normal and then be away from it for a year, and come back and you are thrown right back into bewilderment and surprise . That's mostly how I felt for my first 2 weeks back though it also really did rejuvenate the endearment and general love I have for Korean people and their culture and traditions.

Things like the first time a cab driver gave me chewing gum and asked me if I spoke Korean, then when I said no continued babbling off in Korean as if hadn't said a thing. When I went for a run around Gillian's neighborhood and was literally cut off multiple times by old ajummas and ajoshis just wanting to have a chat, try to offer me water/tea or touch my hair. When a drunk Korean man was swaying all over the road and the Police drove up - thinking that he was slowing down to help the man - instead they just drove along as we walked so they could stare at the foreigners and point blank ignoring the man sprawled across the pavement. The 24 hour convenience stores where you can buy cheap alcohol at any time of day or night. The bars where anything goes, where there is never a closing time and no one ever gets cut off whether they are dancing on the bar, throwing up outside or passed out on the couch. SHABU SHABU! (This doesn't even require an explanation. I have had it probably 10 times since I came back and during each scrumptious meal, the only time I am able to speak is when I am talking about how good it tastes.)

Welcome back to Korea!
Shabu Shabu - the most delicious food ever made.

The pure generosity of Korean people has already proved indescribable. A small group of us decided to go shopping on a Sunday afternoon which quickly turned into walking about town with beers in hand. We went into Songs for 1 beer and to use the bathroom. things all went destructively downhill when Jo and I emerged from the bathroom to Ryan and Chuck singing "Can you feel the love tonight?" at the top of their lungs. Most bar owners would probably have cringed at the sight of crazy people singing karaoke at 4 in the afternoon. Mr Song ,the happiest and nicest man in Gwangju, however poured us some shots and invited us for dinner. And so in between our 'the doors' and 'toto' renditions, we sat and ate Sam Gyop Sal and drank beers together with Mr Song and his friends.
Dinner at Mr Songs after a day of beer and karaoke.

The first 2 weeks were a great time - catching up with old friends, meeting new ones and reconnecting with the plain madness of Gwangju life once again. I think after a year away it is easy to not necessarily forget (because I was reminded very quickly) but to underestimate how ridiculous one can actually behave in a place like Gwangju. Let's just say it was a wonderful, tequila, soju and Margarita filled 14 day long dance party.  

DANCE PARTY!


Orientation began shortly after that - 50 of us were stationed in the swanky Shin Yang Park Hotel on the base of Mudeung mountain in central Gwangju for 10 days. It was 9-5 days of presentations on teaching and Korean culture and nights of fun and games with new friends including a sunny Sunday afternoon at the Baseball stadium, watching the KIA TIGERS.     
Baseball Game!

Finally after 3 and a half weeks of living out of my suitcase - it was time for our co-teachers to pick us up from the hotel and take us to our new schools and apartments.
I have been very fortunate this year with my job placement for many reasons. The first reason being that I took over the job from one of my close friends, Lauren so I was able to come to the school before orientation, get acquainted with a few teachers and students and learn from Lauren how things work at both the school and the apartment. Lauren was a star in getting me settled in and it's really nice to have reminders of her all over the place - I miss her terribly now that she is gallivanting around the States but it's a small consolation. The Second reason is that my job and apartment are just all around excellent - an incredibly welcome change from my first year in Korea.

View from my new apartment in Damyang.

I am teaching at a public high school in Dam yang (a tiny county about 20 minute by bus from Gwangju.) It's such a gorgeous area and I am loving living out in the country (though I have yet to spend more than 2 consecutive nights in - there has been too much going on in other places.) I go running as often as I can along the river and out and in between the fields and trees, it's picturesque and often I find myself unintentionally going for longer just because it's so pretty. I have on two occasions actually managed to get myself lost because I haven't been paying attention to the route.

The job itself has already been a lot of fun. Exchanging elementary kids who show nothing but love and excitement to talkative highschoolers with teenage attitude instead has been a challenge but I have to say I have enjoyed most of it. It's very different but I am actually loving it particularly from a communication level - even the kids with the lowest level English, it is not too difficult to come up with something that sparks interest or at least recognition. If anything, I just produce the names of famous K.Pop stars or Korean food but most of them are really lighthearted and like to joke around. I have a student (who is in the equivalent of Grade 12) that I don't actually teach but who comes to sit and chat to me during his free time. We just sit in my office and talk about music or books for 20-40 minutes every few days and I have begun calling him Kanye West (because that's his favorite singer.) The other day, he came in and asked if I would help him pronounce the lyrics to a song he wants to perform at the school festival. Naturally, he wants to perform a Kanye West song. This is the Chorus:

"Let's have a toast for the douche bags
Let's have a toast for the assholes
Let's have a toast for the scumbags
Every one of them that I know
Let's have a toast for the jerkoffs"

Yes, he wants me to teach him how to pronounce these words... I just burst out laughing.


The teachers have all been great so far as well. It's really nice to be part of the public school system and be treated just like any other teacher and to be able to participate in the normal aspects of Korean school life.

Last week we had our first monthly teachers volleyball game. Now, I have never played volleyball in my life and I have no idea what to expect. So at 2pm I walk casually over to the gym, go inside and the teachers are all gathering around some tables that they have set up next to the volleyball court. I go over and am immediately greeted with a can of beer and a shot of soju. WHAAAAT??? I am absolutely baffled. It's 2 in the afternoon and the teachers have to go back to class at 5. AND they are at school. The next thing I know, my principal is handing me the next shot and my vice principal is on the other side of me asking me to always call him by the name "Brad Pitt" whilst chugging a cup full of rice wine. ...aaaand only an hour later when everyone was sufficiently liquored up did we begin the game. It was a hoot. I was the only lady playing - all the rest were lined up on each side of the court cheering loudly anytime anyone touched the ball and then scampering onto the court with in-between-point shots of soju. The game itself was hysterical, constantly jumping between ridiculously competitive to utterly slapstick. People rolling around on the floor, diving into each other and every time I got a hand on the ball and it didn't end in disaster I was congratulated with high fives, back slaps and the occasional bow. Our team ended up winning the game and we were given toothbrushes as a prize. Everyone stood around the tables, drinking more and eating fried chicken and fruit and then as if none of this had even happened, 5pm rolled around, we cleared up and they all went to teach their evening classes and I stumbled on home.

Laying at the Han River, Seoul.
 There have been some crazy weekends to account for too. We have already made 2 trips to Seoul - one for a Feed the Boats concert - which was ROCKING as always, and one to spend time with our friends Aaron and Katelyn who are living up there. We spent the evening, just 4 of us, enjoying the spring weather at a Korean street seafood restaurant having some drinks and then spent all of Sunday laying on the grass next to the Han river. It was blissful to lie in the sun and watch the Korean families out to play, the cyclists racing down the pedestrian path almost crashing into multiple walkers, couples taking 45 minutes to erect tents, lying in the them for 30 minutes and then spending another 30 minutes taking them down.We have had a few public holidays thrown into the mix recently which allowed us to have some daytime merriness - including an afternoon at the fun cafe playing board games, the ethnic hubbly bubbly cafe and many sunny rooftop gatherings. We also did a night hike the other week, which was a thrilling new experience - pitch black darkness trekking up a mountain - luckily I had my trusty headlamp and a bottle of soju to calm my nerves. The view of the lights of Gwangju from the Pagoda at the top was grand.  
Chilling on the rooftop.

We had a sparkly night out for Gillian's birthday. We went for dinner at a delicious 'all you can eat' galbi place and then went to a noraebang for a few hours. At 2am, after playing catch ball in the street amongst a multitude of cars, motorbikes, street stalls and people, we entered into the Bubble Bar black hole and somehow decided it was necessary to buy a bottle of tequila. Needless to say, Gillian and I woke up in the morning on her bedroom floor covered in heart stickers, tree branches, leaves and thorns and a full packet of goodies that we bought from the convenience store at 5am. What we do know though, is that we had a helluva great night. Such is nightlife in Gwangju:) 

Gillian's Birthday!

It's already been 6 weeks full of wonderful memories and I couldn't have asked for a better beginning to my second round in this beautiful country.I'm sure the next year and more is only going to bring around more ridiculous stories to share, great memories to cherish and a lot of new experiences to learn from.


So stay tuned until next time..

Katie x